Southern Nicaragua is one of those places that sneaks into your soul and stays there. After months of working, living, and leading retreats in the beach towns near San Juan del Sur, I’ve picked up the little details that most guidebooks skip over. Whether you’re visiting Nicaragua for surf, yoga, or just to slow down, here’s everything you need to know before you go.
Where Is San Juan del Sur?
San Juan del Sur is a colorful fishing village turned surf town on Nicaragua’s Pacific coast. It’s about 2.5 hours from Managua, or just 45 minutes from the Costa Rican border crossing at Peñas Blancas. The town itself has a lively, social scene — but the real gems are the beaches just north and south, like Playa Maderas and Playa Escameca.
How to Get There
- From Managua: Book a private taxi (around $120-$150), shared shuttle ($30–40), or take the chicken bus. The ride is about three hours with a taxi or shuttle, and a bit longer with the chicken bus.
- From Liberia, Costa Rica: Many travelers cross the border at Peñas Blancas. Book a private taxi (around $120) directly to San Juan del Sur. The only catch? You’ll take one taxi from Liberia to the border, walk across, and then take a new taxi from the Nicaraguan side of the border to SJDS. The border crossing can take anywhere from thirty minutes to several hours, depending on the time of day, so be sure to plan in advance — and bring snacks.
- Getting to the Beaches: Playa Maderas is about 20 minutes north of town, while Playa Escameca is about 40 minutes south. Both require navigating dirt roads — a taxi with 4WD is a good call.
Where to Stay
You’ll find everything from hostels to luxury eco-lodges here.
- San Juan del Sur: Great for nightlife, restaurants, and convenience. You’ll be steps from bars, beach sunsets, and street food.
- Playa Maderas: The surf capital of the area. Expect surf camps, hostels, and eco-lodges tucked in the hills. It’s a great for meeting locals and other travelers.
- Playa Escameca: Quieter, wilder, and more remote. This is where you go for off-grid living, luxe yoga retreats, and true disconnection. Don’t expect shops or nightlife; this area is pure nature.
Things to Do
- Surf: If you have some experience, Playa Maderas is a must. Rent a board or even take lessons from instructors perched right on the beach. Playa Remanso is another favorite.
- Yoga & Retreats: The coastline is dotted with retreat centers offering yoga, meditation, and wellness programs. Even if you’re not on retreat, many places welcome drop-ins.
- Watch a Sea Turtle Release: Located right on Playa Escameca, Vital Actions is a grassroots U.S. nonprofit dedicated to protecting biodiversity and empowering local communities, with one of its core efforts focused on sea turtle conservation in Central America.
- Boat Trips: Spend the day on the water spotting dolphins, snorkeling, and watching the coastline from a whole new angle.
- Explore Beaches: There are over a dozen beaches around San Juan del Sur, each with its own vibe. Playa Marsella is calm and secluded, Playa Remanso is laid-back, and Playa Yankee is great for more advanced surfers.
- Sunsets: Every evening, both locals and tourists gather on the to watch the sky turn the most beautiful shades of pink and orange.
Food & Drink
- Local Eats: Gallo pinto (rice + beans), plátanos maduros (sweet plantains) and tostones (fried plantains) are Nicaraguan staples.
- In Town: Try Ding Repair for lunch, Wrap & Roll for poke bowls, and La Tostaderia for cold brew.
- Playa Maderas: Juanitas – also known as J’s Kitchen – is a must-try. Get the fish curry and thank me later.
- Playa Escameca: Most eco-resorts have their own kitchens, serving fresh, healthy meals. Some are open to the public, so you can get a delicious meal even if you’re not a hotel guest.
Practical Tips
- Weather: Dry season (Nov–April) means sunshine…and dusty roads. Rainy season (May–Oct) is lush and green, with afternoon showers. Pro tip: February and September are my favorite months to be in Nica!
- Air Conditioning: Many eco-resorts, shops and restaurants just don’t have it. If you’re worried, I’d suggest visiting during dry season when there’s more of a breeze.
- WiFi: While the wifi in beach towns is not always reliable, it’s generally good in San Juan del Sur. Consult your phone provider before traveling, and buy a Claro SIM card with data when you arrive as backup.
- Money: Nicaragua runs on córdobas, but USD is widely accepted. Always carry small bills – it’s hard for small businesses to make change for anything bigger than a $20.
- Safety: San Juan del Sur is generally safe, but take normal travel precautions. At night, taxis are better than walking long distances.
- Mindset: Things run on “Nica time.” Don’t fight it; the slow pace is part of the magic.
Why You’ll Fall in Love
San Juan del Sur is equal parts surf town, community hub, and wild escape. Playa Maderas gives you energy, and Playa Escameca gives you peace.
Yes, you’ll sweat, curse the WiFi, and question your life choices when your shuttle gets stuck behind a herd of cows, or when you’re driving through crazy road construction, but then you’ll see howler monkeys ten feet away in the jungle, or a sunset that silences every complaint. That’s Nicaragua’s gift: raw, real beauty, no filter needed.
Whether you stay in San Juan del Sur, chase waves at Playa Maderas, or disconnect completely at Playa Escameca, southern Nicaragua is waiting to welcome you with open arms, and a cold Toña at the end of the day.
THE TO GO LIST 
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